Feb 9, 2011

Drafting a sleeve

Most of the patterns in my collection are for standard sleeves, and without much drafting experience I was pleased to find this article that should help me to draft the sleeves for my caraco jacket.

This picture will give you a better idea of what I have to do:
Thanks to Lauren from American Duchess for sending me this image :)
17th and 18th Century Fashion in Detail, Page 94


Miss Suzi said...

I think the back of the sleeve seam line is missing in that drawing. I have never seen a raglan sleeve on an 18th century garment. The sleeves go up to the neckline yes, but they are generally cut in a very similar way to a modern set in sleeve - see Janet Arnold, Hunnisett, Baumgarten and Burnston for sleeve patterns.

Mrs Aylwen Gardiner-Garden said...

I agreed with you until I read this description.

From page 94 of 17th and 18th Century Historical Costume in Detail:

A plain rounded cuff is embellished with a pleated trim, and gently shaped over the elbow by virtue of a loop and button, which gather it up on the inner side of the sleeve. Made of Indian painted cotton, this simple little jacket, or caraco, as it was called in the 18th century, belies the complexity of its construction. It looks at first like a short version of a sack back gown, but there are a number of unusual aspects to its cut. A T-shaped piece had been cut from one piece of cotton, constituting the back and whole of the sleeves; these fold over the arm forming a raglan seam in front. At the back, shaping is achieved by tucks rather than traditional pleats or seams.

Miss Suzi said...

You don't have to copy it exactly though, if you are concerned about the sleeves. There are a lot of jackets out there with "normal" 18th century sleeves.

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