Open Robe from S&S Pattern

Although some may wish to use Open Robe patterns from Patterns of Fashion or Norah Waugh, there are others who have been using existing patterns and drafting their own. Whilst these do not have documented historical accuracy, they are giving a regency 'look', are economical in their fabric usage and make use of existing patterns.
Yesterday I got out the Sensibility Elegant Lady's Wardrobe pattern and started out drafting an open robe bodice from the crossover dress pattern, as I'd seen done elsewhere.

I wasn't happy with the over-shoulder pleats - I felt that I needed to retain more of Janet Arnold's pattern where the shoulder and front had pleats. So I took my tracing and moved across to the gathered dress pattern on the same sheet.

This made more sense to me, so I got out my light weight shapewell and proceeded to make a toile.

I'm happy with the back, but took a poor photo of the front.  One thing I do know is that I will not cut out the front as one piece - I need to separate the crossover piece at the front, with the seam providing strength. I also need to re-shape the lower edge.

Open Robe c. 1795

Next to be added to our collection is the 'open robe', seen in Sense & Sensibility and commonly referred to as The Picnic Dress. I've seen dressmakers call this as a half-robe, however Norah Waugh in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' refers to it as an open gown.



I am considering using the pattern of an open gown c. 1795 from the Victoria and Albert Museum that Norah Waugh published in her book, The Cut of Women's Clothes and the drawstring gown from Jennie Chancey's collection.

The Gallery of Fashion at http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/heid/heid.html) shows the open robe worn as an outdoor garment. "Robe a la Turque" [below] is from November 1794 and is a nice example of an afternoon dress.Empress Josephine [below] wore a sleeveless open robe at her coronation in 1806.
1808 Princess Borghese

"Dress (open robe) [English] (C.I.37.46.1)". In Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dreh/ho_C.I.37.46.1.htm (October 2006)