My Tidens Tøj Regency Gown (updated)

Original Gown

This Danish wedding gown has long been of interest to me, and this week I received the fabric that I'd had custom embroidered for it. The original can be seen at http://natmus.dk/historisk-viden/temaer/modens-historie/1790-1840/hvid-brudekjole/.

My version of the embroidery pattern

Closer up of fabric with white embroidery along the hem.

I've chosen a fine white cotton with matching thread for embroidery and will be making a size 12 using the pattern below, which is a screenshot of the pdf that is back online at http://natmus.dk/fileadmin/user_upload/natmus/historisk-viden/modens-historie/snitmoenster/hvid-brudekjole.pdf.

Below are the photos I took of this gown on my recent trip to Denmark. It was so fantastic to see it up close, right in front of me. Unfortunately, it was behind glass, so these are the best photos I could get.

Patterns you may wish to use to replicate this gown include:

• Nehelenia's 1790 Chemise Dress Pattern (based on this exact gown) gives a good bodice base and overlay.
• Sense & Sensibilities Elegant Ladies Closet Pattern is good to use for dress construction methods as this gown is constructed like the drawstring gown. I used the skirt pattern but adjusted the fabric widths to fit my gown - my front pieces were wider and I used 2.5m for the back panel. Another pattern you could try that I did not experiment with is the Laughing Moon Chemise Dress, but it does not have the pleated collar overlay and I am unsure how the front is gathered.

My recommendation for beginners/intermediate is to make the Sensibility drawstring gown with elbow length sleeves and add the overlay from the Chemise dress pattern.  It's not quite what I did but would probably end being a lot easier.

Dress Base:

I put together two of these from sturdy linen for the boned bodice
and one from fine linen for the lining. 

The bodice is boned with cotton cord.

The back is pleated over the top of the boned bodice.

Laced at the front.
Eyelets are sewn by hand using a thick linen thread
from Burnley & Trowbridge.

Back view of laced bodice.

Bodice Overlay:

Pleated overlay with cotton stay tape as mentioned in the pattern instructions.

According to the instructions the ends are mounted onto cotton stay tape.

Tape pinned for sewing down.

Once the tapes are sewn down the back is sewn together by hand. 

Overlay is attached to the front skirt panel.
I made a french seam for tidiness and then ran a cotton tape through the casing.
Don't forget to sew the ends into the side seam before you finish constructing the gown.

Pleating the back and finishing off the gown:

2.5m fabric pleated onto the back.
Using 2" pleated I make a pleat facing towards center back,
pin it, then measure 1", stick in pin, and do next pleat to that pin. 

Starting to look like a dress at last!

3am selfie after sewing all night to get it finished. 

Front view with proper camera - must check my son's camera
settings because my iphone photos ended up a lot better than this.

Back view.
My husband wouldn't take the shawl away
so its a bit hidden.

Close up of the back. I must say white
is a really bad colour to photograph outdoors.

1812 Muslin Gown

Serena Dyer has just written a wonderful article showing you step-by-step photographic instructions making an 1812 muslin gown based on an example held at the Museum of London. 
This article is on that wonderful, resource-full website, Your Wardrobe Unlockd. Yes, you do need to be a member to read the articles, but I believe it is worth it. I am constantly visiting the site and learning more all the time about historical costuming. And if you want to take your costuming a little further, there is a sister site, Foundations Revealed, where you can learn all about making corsets and other undergarments.
...added from comments below....Wardrobe Unlocked and Foundations Revealed are offering subscription deals- buy one month- get two free. Seems like enough incentive to give it a try!

Amy's Regency Gown

I made this regency ball gown, a size 6 in a lovely embroidered silk.

Regency Gowns

I had a shock yesterday. I filled in a calculator to see if it was profitable to sell my regency gowns. I found that if I wanted to earn a base wage I should be selling them for approx. $400. I couldn't believe it!
I've already had to go and raise the prices on all my garments because of shipping rates getting the fabric here. I felt horrible doing this but it is not fair to my family to make these beautiful gowns for a loss. Don't worry, I'm still keeping the costs down as much as I'm able.
I've re-vamped my website to reflect the new prices and am adding new gowns to the collection to include ones made using the patterns from Janet Arnold's 'Patterns of Fashion'.
Last night I put a few up on ebay, for a much reduced rate than normal to see if I can catch a few sales while I have time up my sleeve.