Partlet research: gold embroidery

To reproduce the partlet pictured here, I've found a nice design of Italian origin in Patterns of Fashion 4 that I'd like to use in whole or part.

Original from Janet Arnold, drawn in the book actual size.

I think I'll ditch the florals and just use the inside scrolls without the lines, but then use two parallel lines between each design line. 

Venetian partlets

The partlet in my portrait has some beautiful embroidery that I believe has been done in a double running stitch or split stitch.

Online resources about double running stitch

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blackwork/runningstitch/index.html

http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/double-running-stitch.html

http://www.skinnersisters.com/double/

Split Stitch Tutorials
http://www.needlenthread.com/2006/10/split-stitch-video-tutorial-for-hand.html

Pictorial references

I like the work of the Italian painter Giovanni Antonio Fasolo. His frescos have given me a lot of information for the reproduction of the gown from his fresco, the Concert, that I'm attempting to reproduce as closely as I'm able.

Good representation of the back

Sleeve details

Again showing narrow shoulders and lack of adornment

Good back study

Close up of the partlet

Blackwork on the chemise

Seams in 1560s

I think I've found what I'm looking for at http://extremecostuming.com/articles/theelizabethanseam.html, and it backs up what I've been reading in Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 about a Venetian smock of this period.

1560s Venetian Gown [toile]

I've been playing around with the toile overnight. Here are some pictures of the final dress pieces pinned on me - note that there are seam allowances on this and that it will look a lot different with boning, lining and interlining. The back neckline is definitely too high and will need to be lowered, the straps are narrow but have wide seam allowance on them right now. The last picture shows that it will have a narrow v-opening once boned properly.
I had this fabric in my stash, and am using the "wrong" side as it matches the portrait better. I would have preferred a more flowing pattern but need to work my way through the stash this year.

1560s Venetian Gown

Date
to be completed by: 18 February 2011 for the Peacock Ball & Renaissance Revel on Saturday 19 February in Canberra, Australia.
Materials
Gown: red/gold cotton brocade already in fabric stash, lace for cuffs. Bodice to be stiffened with cotton duck, linen canvas and boning.
Underskirt: ?? over a corded petticoat
Partlet: silk organza with gold embroidery. Info on pattern here.

The bodice will be interlined with linen canvas and lined with linen, boned fairly heavily with plastic boning so that I won't have to wear a corset with it.  I am keeping a straight waistline at the back as shown in a similar fresco below by the same artist and the low square neckline popular in Venetian dress.

The skirt may be based on one of the fuller skirts in Patterns of Fashion with gored side panels, and will be cartridge pleated to the bodice. Note the contrast coloured underskirt?