Open Robe from S&S Pattern

Although some may wish to use Open Robe patterns from Patterns of Fashion or Norah Waugh, there are others who have been using existing patterns and drafting their own. Whilst these do not have documented historical accuracy, they are giving a regency 'look', are economical in their fabric usage and make use of existing patterns.
Yesterday I got out the Sensibility Elegant Lady's Wardrobe pattern and started out drafting an open robe bodice from the crossover dress pattern, as I'd seen done elsewhere.

I wasn't happy with the over-shoulder pleats - I felt that I needed to retain more of Janet Arnold's pattern where the shoulder and front had pleats. So I took my tracing and moved across to the gathered dress pattern on the same sheet.

This made more sense to me, so I got out my light weight shapewell and proceeded to make a toile.

I'm happy with the back, but took a poor photo of the front.  One thing I do know is that I will not cut out the front as one piece - I need to separate the crossover piece at the front, with the seam providing strength. I also need to re-shape the lower edge.

Sheer Muslin Gown

I love the look of a sheer muslin gown. Making it, however, is another story. Allow yourself more time than normal and take it slow and easy. Keep your sewing table clear and clean, and keep any animals and children right away. These fabrics snag and stain easily, so use fine sharp pins and sewing needles.

Elegant Lady's Drawstring Dress Pattern #2

Make your neckline bias binding/drawstring casing from your fashion material, using the guide on the pattern sheet. Pin binding around the bodice neckline, beginning and ending at the center front and folding under the center front edges as shown in the instructions.




Stitch, taking care not to catch the bodice lining pieces as you go.



Trim seam allowance down to 1/4" and clip curves.


Fold under the raw edge of the binding and fold the binding to the inside of the neckline to create the drawstring casing.








Press neatly and pin in place.




Stitch, making small running stitches all the way around the neckline and making sure outside stitches are tiny, even and neat.

Felled Seams

I have used this two-step seam method for most of the seams in the Elegant Lady's Closet drawstring dress.


Sew together the seams at 15mm as indicated in the pattern instructions. Open out the seam and trim back one of the seams, in this case I've trimmed back the fabric that was attached to the 'lining'.


Fold the outer edge in over the narrow edge and crease.



Fold again and pin.


At this point you can do a plain hem stitch.


I did a simple running stitch that suited this garment.

The Elegant Lady's Closet Drawstring Pattern

This historically accurate regency gown pattern is selling through Regency Reproductions and of late some home sewers have asked if there are any step-by-step photos demonstrating how to make this dress.

Here below are some quick photos in the hope they will be of assistance. The text used with the illustrations comes from the pattern instructions.



1. Bodice


Pin the bodice back and side back together, matching notches and easing curve as necessary.


Stitch.


Do note that the side back curve ends below the shoulder of the bodice back piece. This is correct and creates an inward curve for the sleeve.


Clip curves.





Press seam toward the side.



Press and fell both side back seams (see post on felled seams)


Make a narrow hem on the top, bottom, and front edges of the bodice front 'lining' pieces. [I prefer to do a running stitch by hand here]



Pin and baste front lining piece on top of bodice front piece across the shoulder, around the armhole, and down the side seam, right side of lining to wrong side of bodice, matching up armhole edge and side seam. [my basting line is 10mm in from the edge]






Pin bodice front and back pieces together at shoulder seams, right sides together. Stitch.


Press seams toward the back of the bodice.


Fell both 'shoulder' seams.


Pin bodice side seams together ("lining" will be on top). Stitch, stopping at the first dot and resuming at the second dot.


[Snip thread between both, as long as you have knotted the thread. My machine does an automatic knot.]