Showing posts with label research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label research. Show all posts

Jul 19, 2012

The Regency Pelisse

The pelisse, essentially a long coat, came in to fashion in the early 1800s to replace the heavier, more tailored redingote.

pe·lisse
Noun:
  1. A woman's cloak with armholes or sleeves, reaching to the ankles.
  2. A fur-lined cloak, esp. as part of a hussar's uniform.
In 1803 the Gentleman's Magazine reported on the wedding of Lady Georgiana Gordon to the Duke of Bedford, writing that the lady wore:
a muslin dress of the finest fabric... and ... previous to her departure for Woburn, she wore an elegant fringed muslin pelisse, lined with sarsenet, and trimmed with lace of great value.
As early as 1810 we read in La Belle Assemblee:
[Pelisses] are still made to fit tight to the shape, to button down the front with small raised silk buttons, left broad over the bosom and shoulders, but sloped in something narrower to the fall of the back behind...We have seen several elegant women in fine black cloth pelisses, ornamented with the narrowest gold braiding.
In May of 1810, Ackermann's quotes from a letter:
Pelisses, as is usual at this season are in much request. They are chiefly composed of twill sarsnets, either shot or figured; some reaching to the feet, clasped at regular distances from the throat to the bottom; others are of a demi-length, rounded at the ends and confined with festooned ropes of floss silk with tassels in the center.
Ackerman's Repository is quoted in August 1810 as mentioning: 
A plain muslin short pelisse, trimmed with [vandyke lace].
La Belle Assemblee, again writes in 1810:
...we have nothing more approved to offer than the fine sprigged India muslin pelisse, lined with pale pink, straw, blue, or lavender, and trimmed entirely around with a narrow lace edging...
In September of 1816, however, the Repository of Arts was advising:
">Muslin pelisses, so elegant and so appropriate to the season, have, from the coolness and humidity of the weather, been entirely laid aside. 
We read in The Mirror of Fashion in August 1817 that:
pelisses are still considered as elegant for the promenade costume... and ... a pelisse of blue and white shot sarsnet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed with white satin.

The Ladies Monthly Museum of October 1817 indicates that pelisses are becoming more fitted:
Silk pelisses begin to be generally adopted for walking dresses.
In 1818 the Lady's Monthly Museum reported that: 
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