Showing posts with label 18th c. Court Ensembles 2014. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 18th c. Court Ensembles 2014. Show all posts

Mar 14, 2014

18th Century Engageantes

Engageantes are false sleeves worn with women's clothing in the 18th century. They took the form of ruffles or flounces of linen, cotton, or lace, and were often tacked inside the elbow-length sleeves so they could be removed for cleaning.

There are some wonderful examples of extant sleeve 'ruffles' or 'flounces' at http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/engageantes.html and there is a Mill Farm Pattern.

We see them in portraits from the mid-18th Century, and whilst mostly worn by the upper classes, there are images of them worn around the home. In the portrait below we see the shift showing under the outer sleeve ruffles of a laundress, though this one looks a little too genteel to my eyes.

“Laundress” by Henry Robert Morland
I found this image showing an elaborate sleeve ruffle - three outer ruffles joined by two inner silk organza ruffles.

 Joseph Blackburn, 1762
Today I pinned my sleeve flounces into the sleeve to get an idea what they looked like. I have made mine from an extremely sheer light cream silk cotton fabric that goes well with both my colouring and with the cream silk of the gown. I'm hoping that when I add the outer silk flounces that they will support these inner flounces a bit more. Next time I'd like to try using a stiffer silk organza.



If you want a pair of engageants just like this I am happy to take orders in my Etsy store. I have plenty of this silk cotton fabric in either white or ivory (pictured).

Mar 13, 2014

18th Century Court Gown, a work in progress

I've had to put aside my regency gown while I work on my 18th Century Court Gown to wear at the Jane Austen Festival for a dance display. Do join my progress at https://www.facebook.com/groups/18c.sewalong/
Whilst I love sewing by hand, my carpal tunnel and deadline for finishing this gown mean that I must learn how to use some of the embroidery stitches on my sewing machine. I'm slowly improving.

Dress inspiration - this gown was photographed at the Leeds City Museum, UK.



 


My fabric, an embroidered silk from puresilks.us in India

My hoop (Simplicity 3635) and stays (Nehelenia)
Stomacher design

Boning the back of the stomacher

Sewing the design lines onto the front

Playing around with trimming ideas
Getting my punches to work

Two punched silk sleeve flounces
Embroidered design onto silk flounces using tear away stabiliser

After ironing remove the tear away stabiliser

Carefully cutting away the edges


Two large and one small flounce done, one more to go.
I'm getting a little better doing machine embroidery.







$0 Web Hosting

Total Page Views