Rouleaux trim started

I'm copying this gorgeous spencer from the Chertsey Museum in the UK. I was lucky to inspect it in detail on a previous visit and hope to visit it again in 2017 to get better quality photos.

Preparing to transfer the design, and while I'm sewing I've worked out how it might have been sewn in period - not the way I've prepared it, and possibly would save a lot of time in the whole process.

Techniques as well as step-by-step how-to will be discussed in greater detail in my Kickstarter book at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1245085016/trims-frills-and-furbelows

2021 Update: I am working on a tutorial for a different way to make Rouleaux Trim - or, the way that trim was made for this particular garment. 




























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1790s Riding Habit

I've been sewing so much and neglecting my blog. Many items get put on my facebook page and never get written up here.
My most recent adventure is inspired by an embroidered jacket in the Kyoto collection. It is two separate garments and I've found a waistcoat at the V&A that I'll be copying for the under garment, minus the standup collar. I've been playing around with drafting pattern pieces and am now hand embroidering the collar - one bit at a time. Since I don't normally embroider it will probably take a while, so my goal is to have it wearable for the Jane Austen Festival next April.

Jacket in Kyoto Collection. This is two separate garments.

Waistcoat in the V&A

Back of waistcoat

Working out my design.

Chalked Design

Testing out embroidery possibilities.

My hand embroidery so far. I've just changed to a different frame to stop damage occurring under the ring. 

Playing around with patterns.

Chemisette with box pleated collar

On Thursday night I ran a chemisette sewing class and showed two methods of putting together a chemisette.

This is my handsewn version featuring a box-pleated collar and it is now for sale in the Jane Austen Festival Australia dress store. You can make your own using this pattern.

Do you dislike hand sewing corsets?

I've just read a recommendation for Clover black/gold needles and am very tempted to give them a go. I need strong/sharp needles when I'm hand sewing the binding onto my corsets.

"The needle is 30% less friction-resistant than conventional hand-sewing needles. The needle is polished along the axis and coated with ultra-thin black plating for anti-rust resistance. These do not bend and sew difficult to hand sew fabrics such as Coutil with ease. You will not be disappointed by these!"