Blue Regency Ball Gown

I finished my blue regency silk satin and lace gown just in time to wear it to our Christmas Carol Ball last night. The simple dress theme was "Christmas" so John and I went as merrymakers from Mr Fezziwig's Party.

Future Regency Gown Project by Aylwen

I ordered some lace online because it was cheap and pretty - when it arrived I realised it would be perfect for a version of this dress that I have loved for a long time. I still can't believe my luck! The picture does not do it justice - it is a lovely aqua embroidery with sprigs all over.

There is a gown in Costume in Detail by Nancy Bradfield that I'll use for information.

 

  

Together with instructions for three-piece sleeves as shown on page 35 of Period Costume for Stage and Screen by Jean Hunnisett.

Costume Research - where is it taking me?

Where do you go to learn about historical costumes? Does it fill your life the way it does mine? When I am not minding the family, tending my garden and pets, organising dances and festivals and working my part time job at the local University - I am always thinking/dreaming/planning about historical clothing. Wondering how certain garments were made, how that trim was created, where to get that fabric. Late at night when I am not sewing I am scanning in patterns and blowing up to size, using my technique documented here or browsing other costumers' diaries in google reader and live journal. In 2009 and 2011 I travelled overseas to attend costume conferences and study tours, and am already planning another study tour in 2013. I've taken copious photos that I am able to use in further research.
With all this knowledge filling my head I want to make and share. I want to make all these lovely gowns and I want to share my love of historical costumes with others. I have set up my studio to teach small workshops of 4-6 people and am putting together a calendar for 2012 and am teaching a variety of workshops at Jane Austen Festival Australia in April. My biggest problem is working out what people want to learn in the workshops - what I want to share is not necessarily what they are interested in. So, I ask here, what would you like to do in a 2-day weekend workshop?

Example of a bonnet I'll be teaching you to make in a short workshop at JAFA 2012

1780s Dress Trimming

When you start looking at 1780s gowns you notice that a fair number were untrimmed and that many were made of linen or cotton chintz. I have chosen to make a special gown of printed silk, and to trim it as was done on the Snowshill gown.

Above is a diagram of the trim from Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion I of another gown, yet it looks similarly folded to the cream silk polonaise I am copying. The trim is sewn around the neckline and down the front edges of the overskirt. In the drawings of this gown it is hard to see the whole trim, and only on close examination do we see how it is actually made.

The skirt trim is shown above. Below is a close-up of the trim, showing a stuffed circular puff at regular intervals.

I plan to cut long strip of self-fabric and then to sew narrow trimmings onto each side of the strips before folding and attaching. I don't think I will have a chance to bring out my new 'old' hand pinking tools with this dress unless I choose to do a pinked flounce on the underskirt.

1780s Gowns

From June-August 2011, I travelled to the US, UK and Denmark to study historical costumes, teach dance workshops and to join dance activities where I could.

My first 18th century gown was discovered quite by accident in Historic Deerfield, MA in the US. I was so excited by this round gown because at first glance it looked like a gown and underskirt in the same fabric. Upon closer examination I saw it was a 1-piece dress.

In the UK I went immediately to Berrington Hall, where Althea Mackenzie showed me sections of the Snowshill Collection. In 2009 I was shown the regency collection, but this time I had requested to see the 1780-90s and 1830s.

One garment that I was very keen to see close up was a gown shown in Costume In Detail by Nancy Bradfield.

I have always loved the late 18th Century lines of this gown and its simple decoration. My gowns are worn for dancing and dance displays, so I am very interested in ornamented silk gowns.

The same gown is shown and patterned in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion I, except the petticoat has a flounce around the hem.

I was able to view this gown close-up and took many photos, except that I do not have permission to publish them in the public domain, sorry.

I saw a picture of a gown today that had a design very similar to some silk fabric I have from Duran Texiles, and that I plan to use for my version of the Snowshill gown at our 1780s Costume Weekend in Canberra on the 1-3 October 2011.