Online exhibition - invitation to be involved

At Jane Austen Festival Australia in April 2017 I'll be putting on an exhibition of antique men's and women's Georgian & Regency clothes (a minimum of 20 items). Soon afterwards I hope to launch it as an online exhibition - and that's where I'd like to invite you to be involved in making it bigger and better. Do you collect clothing or accessories from this period? Would you like your items to be part of a global online exhibition? Or do you have computer time and skills you'd like to share helping to get this collection online? Would you like to be able to access a collection where you can click on an image to see close-up interior construction shots? If there is damage a link to conservation methods for repair or storage? Would you like to see links to similar garments online and patterns or books that could be used to make them? Maybe even an online calendar listing events around the world you could wear them to? Can you help write a draft crowdfunding proposal to help cover some of the costs of this project and to self-publish a colour book of the online exhibition?

I'm making a start on this in the next 7-10 days and welcome your support and ideas.

These 1770-90 glazed wool (Calimanco) shoes will be part of the exhibition

See you at the Jane Austen Festival this April!

Ever wondered why some of my sewing projects are unfinished? Its because every year for the last seven years I have been organising Jane Austen Festival Australia. It is a lot of work organising four days and nights of activities, and often needs me to put my sewing aside. Do consider joining us one day, and here below is the program for 2014.


Jane Austen Festival Australia will be held from 10-13 April 2014 at University House within the Australian National University and will celebrate 200 years of Jane Austen, her life & times and the publication of Mansfield Park. Plans are underway to bring you a program that – like the novel – is engaging, thought-provoking and diverting. Please join our email list or join our facebook group to receive notifications about the festival. In the meantime, below is a program listing (subject to last minute changes). "Friends of Jane Austen Festival Australia" are invited to register from the 1 March. All remaining ticket holders will be invited to register for their sessions from 7 March 2014 - it will be first in first served.

Thursday 8.00-4.00: Private Costumed Bus tour 

Depart University House at 8.00 am for a day private bus tour of Historic Yass, the National Trust's Cooma Cottage and the National Museum of Australia Repository in Mitchell seeing the Springfield collection and storage facilities. Lunch at the George Harcourt Inn at Gold Creek is included in your ticket. Return to University House at 4.00pm. Only 20 seats available. 

NB. You are requested to wear Regency Costume on this outing. 

Thursday 6.30-9.00: Registration, Welcome & Games Night 

Drawing Room: Collect your registration pack, and after listening to our guest speaker, Jane Austen's last living relative, Caroline Knight, from Chawton House in the UK; join at one of the period game or sewing tables. Refreshments provided. [free for season ticket holders, $25 for everyone else]

Friday 9.00-10.30: Dance Workshop - Country Dances and Ballroom Etiquette 

Common Room: The Austen era country dance and the ballroom etiquette implicit in novels of the time. I consider a country-dance as an emblem of marriage. Fidelity and complaisance are the principle duties of both … (Northanger Abbey, 1817) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 11/04/2014 $0.00 $0.00 

Friday 9.00-10.30: Talk "Josephine: Good time girl, just another aristocrat, or a product of her time? 

Tony Miller's talk examines the men, dogs, and business dealings that shaped an Empress; traces her birth on Martinique, through the Revolution, to her life after the fall of Paris. Hear the evidence and make your judgement. Held in the Stanner Room. 11/04/2014 $0.00 $0.00 

Friday 9.00-10.30: Sewing Workshop "Walking Bonnet" 

This year’s bonnet has a tall crown and a short brim, suitable for less formal entertainments, and is based on a style popular in 1814. As in previous years, this bonnet is made with buckram and wire (supplied) and you will need to supply 1m of outer fabric of your choice, 50cm cotton for lining, any decorations & ribbons, usual the sewing equipment. Presented by Lynne Cook. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Friday 9.00-10.30: Sewing Demonstration, "Make your Regency Silk Dance Slippers" 

Finding the right style of period shoes for your Regency impression can be fraught with problems. There are beautiful reproduction shoes available but they are often very expensive and the less expensive versions have incorrect details. Your foot may be difficult to fit into mainstream shoe sizes, or, like me, you just want to match your shoes to your gown and wear silk slippers, just like they did at the balls in 1814. These slippers are easily stitched by hand or on the sewing machine. Presented by Lorna McKenzie. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Friday 11.00-12.30: Regency Dance Workshop - French Square Dances 

Common Room: We're not at war with Paris - the new French square dances popular in Austen's England. Much obliged for the quadrilles, … though of course they are very inferior to the cotillions of my own day. (Jane Austen to Fanny Knight, 20 February, 1816) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Friday 11.00-12.30: Talk "Conservation and Storage" 

Presented by Carmela Mollica from the National Museum of Australia. Carmela will talk about the conservation of fabrics and how to store garments in private collections. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Friday 11.00-12.30: Sewing Workshop "Learn the Art of Tatting" 

Participants will learn the art of tatting, which is a form of lacemaking that uses a shuttle to form knots on a central thread. After learning the basic skills of tatting, participants will use these skills to make a tatted edging for a cotton handkerchief. A kit will be supplied and will include a cotton handkerchief, a tatting shuttle, and white cotton crochet thread. Please bring a needle and white cotton thread (for hand sewing). Presented by Kelly Lock. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Friday 11.00-12.00: Talk "Jane Austen Festival Book Club" 

A one hour ‘book club’ session led by author Alison Goodman in which participants discuss and celebrate Mansfield Park – the characters, the story, favourite scenes, the romance, the humour– in an informal setting over coffee, tea and cupcakes. The only prerequisite is that participants read Mansfield Park sometime before the session. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Friday 11.00-12.30 Visit an original Jane Austen letter in the National Library Australia 

The only Jane Austen letter in a public collection in Australia is held at the National Library of Australia in Canberra. JAFA delegates are invited to attend a special viewing. A NLA librarian curator will discuss the preservation of the letter and Austen scholar Janet Lee will present details of its provenance and contents. Travel cost to be confirmed (bus or taxi), private transport ideal. Organised by Janet Lee, University of the Sunshine Coast 

Friday 1.30-3.00: Regency Dance Workshop - The Evolution of Country Dances with Quadrilles 

Common Room: Mr Chivers Fancy and other fascinating offspring of the country dance and quadrille's marriage—the Ecossaise, Spanish Dance, Swedish Dance and Mescolanzes of the 1820s. Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Friday 1.30-3.00: Talk "War of 1812" 

John Potter will talk about the little known (in Australia at least) War of 1812 which took place in North America between 1812 - 1814. The rebadged NSW Corps was there as the 102nd Regiment and included a small number of Australian-born soldiers in it's ranks. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Friday 1.30-3.30: Sewing Workshop "Make a Reticule" 

Make a lined reticule for the ball! Bring 50cm of fabric and 1m ribbon to match your ballgown, as well as usual sewing equipment. Presented by Aylwen Gardiner-Garden. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Friday 1.30-3.30: Sewing Demonstration "How to Tie Your Cravat" 

If you’re anything like me, you spend a lot of time getting ready for the Jane Austen Festival each year. This consists of at least one new outfit, hair styling and accessories. But what about your partner? Do we really give him as much thought? This year, I thought we could devote one of our workshops entirely to our gentlemen, or more particularly his neck cloth, or cravat. This workshop will provide you with directions and practise for tying several different styles of knot, as well as some history, a pattern to make cravats and written instructions on more knots. Presented by Kelly Row. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Friday 3.30-5.00: Regency Dance Workshop - Couples Dances of the Late 18th Century 

Common Room: The couples dances of the late 18th century - the revered minuet and the knotty allemande. I can neither sing so well nor dance so gracefully as I once did—and I have entirely forgot the Minuet de la Cour (Love and Freindship, 1790) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Friday 3.30-5.00: Talk "Period Stitching and Construction Techniques" 

This lecture will be a discussion on methods of stitching and construction in the Regency period. Presented by Hilary Davidson, the previous fashion curator of the Museum of London. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Friday 3.30-5.00: Sewing Demonstration "Mushroom-pleated trims" 

In this class, Antonia will demonstrate how to make a mushroom-pleated trim using a smocking pleater, how to set the pleat and how to use the trim for collars and cuffs. Please bring the usual sewing equipment, but at least scissors, needles and white sewing thread. Presented by Antonia Lai. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Friday 3.30-5.00: Sewing Workshop "Tambour embroidery" 

Popular throughout the Regency period, Tambour work was used to embroider both fabric and net (to imitate lace). Using a hooked needle in a holder, the work is done on a free standing frame as you need both hands – one to hold the needle, the other to hold the thread. Previous experience in handwork is an advantage, not suitable for raw beginners. Tambour hook, holder, thread and ground fabric are included in the kit. A frame and clamp will also be supplied for your use. Presented by Lynne Cook. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Friday 6.30-10.30 Dinner and Variety Night 

Enjoy a formal dinner while being entertained as people were in Regency times. Acts will include singing, music, and dancing. Come in your Regency attire and admire the fashions around you. A cash bar will be available for you to purchase liquid refreshments. 

Saturday 9.00-10.30: Regency Dance Workshop - Capital Dancing 

Common Room: Essentials for "capital dancing" - country dances and etiquette for the evening ball. What a charming amusement for young people this is, Mr. Darcy!—There is nothing like dancing after all.—I consider it as one of the first refinements of polished societies (Pride & Prejudice, 1813) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Saturday 9.00-10.30: Talk "Jane Austen's Pelisse" 

Hilary Davidson will show her reproduction of Jane Austen's pelisse. The original pelisse was constructed exactly 200 years ago in 1814. Presented by Hilary Davidson, previous fashion curator of Museum of London. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Saturday 9.00-10.30: Talk "How do you solve a problem like Fanny? Putting Mansfield Park on Stage and Screen" 

Presented by Deborah Mulhall. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Saturday 9.00-10.30: Sewing Demonstration "All Those Regency Sleeve Designs!" 

Have you ever wanted to recreate a fabulous Regency sleeve style from an illustration you have fallen in love with? Or one that you have seen and just wished you could do? Or looked at some diagrams and not known which way is up? Bring your dream design, or just your desire to learn, and we will discover how sleeve variations are developed from a basic sleeve block, as well as doing some pattern making together from some of the well-known costume history books. Bring pencils and any pattern making rulers/shapes you may have. We will also do some mock-up sleeves (toiles) from calico to see how the cut of the fabric will affect the look of the sleeve. Presented by Adrienne Unger. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Saturday 11.00-12.30: Regency Dance Workshop - Mixers, Reels and Show Off Dances 

Great Hall: Wild dances for late in the evening - mixers, reels and show off dances. Do you not feel a great inclination, Miss Bennet, to seize such an opportunity of dancing a reel? (Pride and Prejudice, 1813) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Saturday 11.00-12.30: Talk "Food Glorious (?) food - on board" 

Exploring the food, and the politics of food, on board Regency naval ships is the focus of "Food, glorious (?) food - on board". You hear about and taste some of the "delights" (not!) of provisions and supping in the navy and other ships of Jane Austen's era. Think Waterloo and Captain Cook (not often expressed in the same sentence) and what it is that binds them. Presented by Megan Gardiner. 

Saturday 11.00-12.30: Sewing Workshop "Regency Trims" 

Learn how to sew some late-Regency trims - Van Dyke/Saw Tooth trims, Buffonees and Ruched Trims using hand stitches of the period including whip stitch gathering. Presented by Aylwen Gardiner-Garden. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Saturday 11.00-12.30: Workshop: Make your own "Silhouette" 

Presented by Sandra Levy. Held in the Torrence Room. 

Saturday 11.00-12.00: Tour the National Film & Sound Archives
McCoy Circuit, Acton 

Saturday 1.30-3.00: Regency Dance Workshop - Set Dances 

Great Hall: More set dances and etiquette for the ball. he was lively and unreserved, danced every dance, was angry… the ball closed so early, and talked of giving one himself…Such amiable qualities must speak for themselves (Pride & Prejudice, 1813) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Saturday 1.30-3.00: Talk "The 95th Rifles: First on the field, the last to leave" 

Presented by Alex Barnes. The 95th Rifles was a pivotal change from the classic redcoat. He worked as a pair, he was a marksman and he held an edge on the battlefield that Napoleon's Army couldn't replicate. The 95th Rifles could be considered the first Special Forces unit of the British Army and has led the way to the current British soldier. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Saturday 1.30-3.00: Sewing Workshop "Make a Pair of Mitts" 

Mitts were a popular hand-covering in the Georgian and Regency periods and they’re a great option for the modern costumer – achieve a beautiful period look while co-ordinating fabrics choices with your outfit and retaining the use of your fingers! In the class we’ll look at different types of mitts, fit and make up a pair of silk-style mitts and discuss decoration techniques. Materials: you will need a 40cm piece of silk taffeta or satin and contrasting embroidery thread in the colours of your choice. Polyester taffeta will be available for making a prototype, for a gold coin donation towards the cost of materials. Presented by Melanie Green. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Saturday 1.30-3.00 Fashion of 1814 Overview 

Using the plates from Ackermans from 1814, this will be a discussion of the styles and how to reproduce them with Lynne Cook, President of the Australian Costumers Guild. 

Saturday 3.30-5.00: Regency Dance Workshop - Couples Waltz and Polonaise
Great Hall: The couples' dances of the early 19th century - the waltz and the Polonaise. Mrs. Weston…was seated, and beginning an irresistible waltz; and Frank Churchill, coming up with most becoming gallantry to Emma, had secured her hand, and led her up to the top (Emma, 1816) Teacher: John Gardiner-Garden 

Saturday 3.30-5.00: Talk "Pugilism and Single-stick" 

Presented by Stephen Gapps. Marital Arts in the Regency period. Held in the Stanner Room. 

Saturday 3.30-5.00: Sewing Workshop "Regency Day Cap" 

Married women and spinsters in the Regency era wore caps indoors, and all women wore some sort of headgear when outdoors. Caps were often made of fine linen or muslin, always white. Make a cotton cap like Jane Austen may have worn, reproduced from historical examples. Please bring white sewing cotton and a basic sewing kit. Presented by Jodie Ruth. Held in the Fellows Room. 

Saturday 3.30-5.00: Antique Costume Study Tables 

Come and view a selection of male and female antique regency garments up close. Cameras are not allowed so that everyone has a chance to see the garments without disruption. 

Saturday 6.30-11.00 Jane Austen Festival Ball 

The Grand Ball of the Jane Austen Festival. It may be possible to do without dancing entirely. Instances have been known of young people passing many, many months successively without being at any ball of any description, and no material injury accrue either to body or mind;—but when a beginning is made—when the felicities of rapid motion have once been, though slightly, felt—it must be a very heavy set that does not ask for more. (Emma, 1816) Come in your best evening costume and enjoy Regency dancing like Jane Austen did. Supper is provided and a cash bar is available for you to purchase liquid refreshments. 

Sunday 9.00-12.30 Mansfield Park Symposium 

Tables will be set up at the back of the room for people to work on any outstanding sewing projects while they listen to the Symposium. Morning tea is provided. 

Topics include: 

1. ‘Addicted to letter writing’: How does Jane Austen use letters in Mansfield Park, and what do her own letters and notes reveal about Mansfield Park? 

Presenter: Janet Lee, University of the Sunshine Coast 

2. Mansfield Park and education 

Presenter: Dr Heather Neilson, University of New South Wales, Canberra 

3. ‘No moral effect on the mind’: Music and education in Mansfield Park 

Presenter: Dr Gillian Dooley, Flinders University, South Australia 

4. ‘The Genius of the Place': Mansfield Park and the improvement of the estate 

Presenter: Professor Christine Alexander, University of New South Wales 

5. ‘In danger of slipping into the ha-ha’: Miss Price’s Kierkegaardian reflex in our ‘Craw-dashian’ age: examine the two double-edged swords which are Classicism and Romanticism. 

Presenter: Marcus Adamson, psychotherapist and business consultant with an interest in the history of ideas and ethics 

6. Mansfield Park and the Navigable World: Global allusions and reflections in Mansfield Park. Presenter: Professor William Christie, University of Sydney 

Venue: Common Room MC: Dr Gillian Dooley 

Sunday 9.00-10.30: Workshop "Decorate &/or Cover a Regency Bonnet" 

Cover a bonnet to wear at the Promenade. Bonnet base provided. Please bring 50cm x 50cm fabric, sewing kit, ribbons and flowers. 

Sunday 11.00-12.30 Regency Dance Manuals 

Have a close look at some of John Gardiner-Garden's antique dance manuals of the Regency period. Please make sure you wash your hands carefully before this session. 

Sunday 12.30-2.00 Picnic and Promenade at Botanic Gardens 

Come in costume to enjoy a picnic lunch and a promenade around the National Botanic Gardens. Please bring your own lunch or purchase from the cafe. (In the event of rain we will visit the National Museum of Australia where we cannot take a picnic but can purchase from their cafe). 

Sunday 2.00-6.30 Jane Austen Cotillion Ball—a glorious buffet of Regency era dance crazes, with country dances led in the Regency manner (i.e. by participants!), lively cotillions taught and called for all, dances that match tunes in Jane Austen’s music books, and lots of other fun dances of the time which you’ve not seen in the movies but might be one day!: 

Shall you be at the Cotillion ball tomorrow? (Northanger Abbey, 1797, publ. 1818).

Become a Friend of Jane Austen Festival Australia here and support our festival.

Mrs Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia
aylwen@janeaustenfestival.com.au 

If you have an exciting presentation you wish to share with us in April 2015, please contact Aylwen as we focus on Jane Austen's "Men" and celebrate the Anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo.

Want to spend at least 7-10 days in Australia enjoying 19th century music, dance and costumes? Come along to the 2014 Jane Austen Festival Australia in Canberra, the nation's capital, followed by four days in the Koziusko National Park at the Yarrangobilly Caves House 19th century dance, music and costume retreat (yes, there are kangaroos, wombats, bush walking, spectacular caves and a spring-fed thermal pool) and then, if you want even more dancing, return to Canberra for the National Folk Festival or travel up to Sydney for a tall ship adventure and even more fun!

Registration is on our website at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/dance-events/2014 with a special August-Only discount ticket offer.

Right now is a good time to pay for travel and accommodation in Australia because our dollar is down, not so good for us but great news for tourists!

Regency Reticules

Looking for a small project to complete over the Christmas break? A regency reticule is definitely something you can start and finish - even by hand while watching the cricket (an Australian tradition).

Reticule, England, 1800-24
Silk with embroidered floral design and tassels
V&A: Museum no. Circ.554-1954

From MFA, Boston. Accession Number 64.692 

Ladies cream silk reticule with chenille embroidery. English 1790-1800

Matching silk satin reticule & shoes in Aylwen's private collection

A pattern to knit a pineapple reticule is here.

You can draw up your own pattern by looking at pictures or use the reticule patterns that are part of the Elegant Ladys Wardrobe pattern. Wingeo also have a reticule pattern with many variants. There are some simple pouch instructions and also a reticule pattern online. Here is a link to how to make tassels and here are some regency embroidery patterns for decoration. To learn even more about reticules, come along to the Jane Austen Festival Australia in Canberra each April and attend one of the workshops.

Links to reticules online:
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-48619
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/spun-steel-bag-119562
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/painted-silk-bag-octagonal-47... 
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-123011
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-123012
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-123013
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/knitted-and-beaded-round-draw... 
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-48208
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-clasp-and-bag-69876
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-100052
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-50155
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-49690

On the planning board... some regency gowns and spencers

A few new garments have been added to my planning board - to be completed for JAFA (Jane Austen Festival Australia) next April. Not all of these will be made, but these images in combination will help make up two wardrobes.

Sewing tempters for JAFA 2012

Jane Austen Festival Australia has released news of some of their hands-on, limited-attendance sewing classes for 2012. This festival is run in Canberra, Australia, every April and features something for everyone - from sewing, costume analysis, talks about Jane Austen's books, Jane Austen's life and letters, Jane Austen's love of dance, dance workshops, soldiers, balls, food, teas, concerts, theatre and more!


To tempt us, the list of workshops below with a variety of teachers from around Australia  looks very comprehensive. And because of their popularity, in 2012 you will be asked to choose just 2 workshops before putting your name on waiting lists for the others. 

Jane Austen Festival Australia 2011

Jane Austen Festival Australia is run in Canberra, the capital city, annually each April. The Director is Aylwen Gardiner-Garden, and she is assisted by her husband John and an army of volunteers. Below is the video that the ABC National News broadcast around Australia on the Sunday evening of the festival.



Elle Macintosh, a journalist student from University Canberra, reported on the event as well and her video is embedded below.


Untitled from Elle Mackintosh on Vimeo.

If you wish to be part of the next Jane Austen Festival Australia please visit our website or join us on Facebook.

Jane Austen Festival Australia (JAFA): Announcement: this rare and complete Regency-era evening ensemble will be on display during the 2010 Jane Austen Festival of Australia

Jane Austen Festival Blog Announcement

It is a rarity to find a set of matching period accessories, but to have them accompanied by their original outfit, is an amazing find!

This ensemble reportedly comes from the estate of Ms. Eliza Fox of Osmaston Hall in Derbyshire, UK.

The canary yellow, trained ball dress, is fashioned from luminous and heavy silk, and decorated with metallic copper threads in a corded, braid-like trim. The high Empire-waist is decorated with a band of ruffled canary silk, and also a band of the chord trim. There is a shimmering medallion of jewels to the center of the neckline, which is accented by further ruffled silk.

The dainty, delicate sleeves and low neckline create the typical look of the Regency period.

The dress is fully lined in gauze and cotton and fastens with hook and eyes to the back, along with some muslin ties.

The quality construction, and hand sewing, is yet another wonder!

The ball shoes, are made from the same shade of canary silk as the dress and purse/reticule, and are decorated with the copper chord trim in a large gathered medallion. They are a lovely, classic pair Regency shoes, with a carved wooden "Louis"-style hard heel, ribbon ties, and kid leather lining.

The drawstring evening reticule is decorated with the braided trim, and fully lined in gauze. It too, is also fully hand sewn.

The complete set is a true treasure, has an astounding beauty and romance that should never be forgotten and always admired.

Regency Dress Collection

My collection of 12+ regency dresses for hire are hanging in the trees drying. Quite an amazing sight, with the sun coming through leaves tinged with autumnal gold.
Making these gowns was a challenge, but seeing them put to full use during the Jane Austen Festival was an absolute delight. I have always wanted to have a collection available for those without a gown or time to make one.
Our next regency-themed ball will be on the 18th October, a Pride & Prejudice Ball.