1840s Men's Coats

Now that I've made myself an 1840s gown I need to research an 1840s outfit for my husband.

Scanned in from a personal copy of The Godeys Ladys Book, 1840s 

In the late 18th century the woollen tailcoat was a fashionable garment worn by men in Europe and America. Woollen cloth was easy to manipulate with stitching and pressing helping to mould the garment to the wearer's shape.

Only part of the tailcoat was lined in the early 19th century.

R.I. Davis (1994). Men's Garments 1830-1900. 2nd ed. California, USA: Players Press, Inc.. x.

During the second half of the 19th century the supply of different types of woollen fabric meant that in many cases the raw edges had to be turned in. The raw edges that dominated in the early 19th century tailcoats was now only seen in the heavier topcoats and lining was used throughout.

I would thoroughly recommend trying to find R.I. Davis (1994). Men's Garments 1830-1900. 2nd ed. California, USA: Players Press, Inc. The two pages I've copied below are only part of their instructions on making an 1840s Double-breasted dress coat, 1840, and the seven page article has copious instructions on all the measurements to take, as well as close-up patterns for the sleeves, collar and lapel.

R.I. Davis (1994). Men's Garments 1830-1900. 2nd ed. California, USA: Players Press, Inc.. 23.

R.I. Davis (1994). Men's Garments 1830-1900. 2nd ed. California, USA: Players Press, Inc.. 24.

Tidens Toj has an 1840s coat on their website.

Men's Regency Tailcoat Workshop, 21-22 May 2011

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden is running a one-off men's regency tailcoat workshop on the 21-22 May 2011 in Canberra, Australia, using the Country Wives brand new Regency men's M-notch and roll collar tailcoat pattern that has just been released in the US and which is already receiving good reviews on its fit, historical accuracy and construction techniques.

Country Wives has just released a brand new Regency men's M-notch and roll collar tailcoat pattern.

This workshop is open to both men and women who have sewing experience, a working sewing machine and time to get the project finished. Participants are welcome to sew the project by hand as was done historically, but may have to finish it in their own time.

If you wish to order a custom-made tailcoat or register interest in a future class, Aylwen is currently taking orders.