1780s Portrait Dress

Our 18th century ball is on this weekend so I'm trying to get my 1780s dress finished. I've had this silk stored in my attic for some years now and feel confident cutting into it now I've had some weight loss. I'm not sure if I'll get my trim sewn in time - if not, that can be done later.
I'm using a dress in the Snowshill collection as my inspiration - images and scale patterns are in Costume in Detail and Patterns of Fashion - and its close to my size 12. Jennie Chancey released a 1780s Portrait Dress Pattern that is very similar and only needed minor changes to fit -  the only alterations were raising the height of the back to cover my stays. My fabric is Duran silk from Sweden.

More updates soon - I need to make and attach the trim tonight. If you're in Canberra please do come to the ball on Saturday.

1780s Dress Trimming

When you start looking at 1780s gowns you notice that a fair number were untrimmed and that many were made of linen or cotton chintz. I have chosen to make a special gown of printed silk, and to trim it as was done on the Snowshill gown.

Above is a diagram of the trim from Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion I of another gown, yet it looks similarly folded to the cream silk polonaise I am copying. The trim is sewn around the neckline and down the front edges of the overskirt. In the drawings of this gown it is hard to see the whole trim, and only on close examination do we see how it is actually made.

The skirt trim is shown above. Below is a close-up of the trim, showing a stuffed circular puff at regular intervals.

I plan to cut long strip of self-fabric and then to sew narrow trimmings onto each side of the strips before folding and attaching. I don't think I will have a chance to bring out my new 'old' hand pinking tools with this dress unless I choose to do a pinked flounce on the underskirt.

1780s Gowns

From June-August 2011, I travelled to the US, UK and Denmark to study historical costumes, teach dance workshops and to join dance activities where I could.

My first 18th century gown was discovered quite by accident in Historic Deerfield, MA in the US. I was so excited by this round gown because at first glance it looked like a gown and underskirt in the same fabric. Upon closer examination I saw it was a 1-piece dress.

In the UK I went immediately to Berrington Hall, where Althea Mackenzie showed me sections of the Snowshill Collection. In 2009 I was shown the regency collection, but this time I had requested to see the 1780-90s and 1830s.

One garment that I was very keen to see close up was a gown shown in Costume In Detail by Nancy Bradfield.

I have always loved the late 18th Century lines of this gown and its simple decoration. My gowns are worn for dancing and dance displays, so I am very interested in ornamented silk gowns.

The same gown is shown and patterned in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion I, except the petticoat has a flounce around the hem.

I was able to view this gown close-up and took many photos, except that I do not have permission to publish them in the public domain, sorry.

I saw a picture of a gown today that had a design very similar to some silk fabric I have from Duran Texiles, and that I plan to use for my version of the Snowshill gown at our 1780s Costume Weekend in Canberra on the 1-3 October 2011.

1780s Portrait Dress Pattern

Sensibility Patterns's new offering, the 1780s Portrait Dress pattern, is now available from their website. Doesn't it look gorgeous?! By sharing or clicking on this link to purchase your pattern you help support the Jane Austen Festival Australia's fundraising efforts. Thanks for your support.